|   Minerals.net is proud to announce our 2013 contest, where  you can win a museum-caliber mineral absolutely free! All you have to do is  register. We are still working out the technical details, so stay tuned. Keep an eye out for our full-page ads in the  January-February editions of The Mineralogical Record and Rocks and Minerals  magazines!
 Here are some of the minerals we will be offering in the contest:
 
                                
                                	|  Fluorite on Quartz,
 Riemvasmaak, Northern Cape Province,
 South Africa.
 |  Tourmaline with Quartz,
 Tourmaline Queen Mine, Pala
 California
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						  | Mineral Specimen Preparation and RepairsWhen  observing the amazing minerals displayed in museums  and collections, we marvel at their unique habits such as color, luster, and  crystal shape. However, when these minerals are originally found, they don’t quite  look like that. They are muddy, rough, and overall unattractive. It takes  proper cleaning, trimming, and preparation to make a rough mineral into a  beautiful display specimen.
 In this article, I’ll discuss my method of cleaning and  preparing my own specimens to make them display-worthy. When I come home from  field collecting, I line my finds on my driveway and hose them with an outdoor garden hose. Small or fragile pieces are saved from this process to protect  them. Once hosed and cleared of heavy mud and dirt, I take the specimens and  either spray them  with a high-pressure cleaning gun, or scrub them with an  electric toothbrush head. (I don’t throw out old toothbrush heads – I use them  to clean my minerals.)
 
 Some minerals are soluble or sensitive to water, and  therefore cannot be washed. Minerals such as the micas will absorb water and start  flaking, and minerals such as Halite will dissolve.  Though the vast  majority of minerals are resistant to water, it is important to know which ones  are not so that no damage will occur during washing.
 
 Some minerals require more extensive cleaning, which water  alone will not accomplish. For example, sometimes there is an ugly brown layer  of iron oxides coating a specimen, or there could be an undesirable coating of  Calcite. For iron oxides, I soak the mineral in Super Iron Out for a day or  two, and for Calcite removal I soak the mineral in Lime Out (an easily  available strong acid), which burns off the Calcite after a few days. Some  minerals will get destroyed when using such chemicals or solvents, so it is  important to know which minerals can handle different cleaning procedures. Much of this is learned from experience and trial and error.
 
 Once cleaned, I proceed to trimming. I often do some rough  trimming prior to a good water scrubbing, but perform a more precise and  careful trimming after cleaning. Basic trimming involves gently chiseling extra  parts of unwanted matrix or damaged crystals, and more intense trimming  requires more effort such as smashing parts of matrix with a sledgehammer to reveal and better  expose crystals. A hammer can also be used to smooth any undesirable rough or jagged edges on the matrix. This job has to be done very precisely, as imperfect trimming  can totally ruin a display specimen.
 
 Orientation is very important. A specimen able to sit on its  own is most desirable. If possible, the main part of the display specimen should  be  centered on the matrix. Sometimes a matrix needs to be sawed flat  on its bottom to properly size and position it. Matrix specimens are more  desirable than free-standing crystals, so it is important to try to preserve the  matrix when trimming. Unfortunately, crystals have a nasty habit of popping out of their matrix  during specimen preparation.
 
 When trimming or preparing minerals, good specimens will sometimes break in the process, though skillful preparation can usually prevent this. Fragile specimens may also break during  handling. Occasionally, a specimen breaks with a clean fracture that can be  easily repaired by gluing the two pieces together. This is especially true of a complete crystal that smoothly pops out of its matrix. A good repair job can make  the specimen look almost as good as original, and a bad repair job can leave  spaces in the contact area or glue stains.
 
 A repair in a mineral will reduce its value. Poorly repaired  minerals will have a highly reduced value. Though naturalists are against  repairing minerals, most collectors are okay with the process as long as this  is clearly disclosed when the mineral is purchased. For a dealer to sell a mineral that has been  repaired, without having it clearly labeled as repaired is devious and  dishonest.
 
 
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